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Published on PastPerfectBiz.com, December 2008
Author Don Orlandi
Rusty mechanisms can be cleaned using several methods, some more efficient and effective than others. Nearly all methods require you to disassemble the metal mechanism from its case. The cheapest technique is to use wire wool. Bead blasting with fine abrasives can also produce clean surfaces with no significant loss of metal, but won't unseize a rusty connection. Freeing oil, applied liberally every few days, will free most corroded joints. The most thorough technique, however, is to separate the mechanism from its case (and other perishable parts) and leave it to soak in a toxic bath of solvents until the corrosion has dispersed. An alternate home remedy is to allow the corroded pieces to soak in a bath of warm water and molasses sugar for up to three weeks before washing off and drying.
Removing stubborn screws can be a pain, especially if you foil your first attempt and strip the screw head. Clean the slot(s) with a needle-ended file to maximize the surface area for the screwdriver. Apply a dab of gripping agent to the screwdriver tip (expensive stuff, but sometimes it just gives you the edge). Insert a tight-fitting screwdriver and whack the handle with a hammer a couple of times to bed it into the slot and help break the screw's grip. If that doesn’t work, try penetrating oil followed by heating the screw head with a soldering iron several times, causing the screw to expand and contract and break its stubborn grip. As a last resort, if the screw head is too stripped or is rusted throughout, drill out the screw and fill the hole with a matching wood plug.
Removing stains from wood is cheapest and easiest with the application of oxalic acid bleach, typically purchased as a solution (e.g. 3M Wood Cleaner and Spot Remover). It removes stains and cleans the wood with less effect upon the natural color. Repeated applications may be required. Neutralize the acid bleach by wiping the wood surface with diluted ammonia (1:1 with water) or baking soda solution (one tablespoon to a liter of water) using a clean sponge. For a more aggressive approach, you can use hydrogen peroxide wood bleach in lieu of the oxalic acid bleach. Hydrogen peroxide works well, but lightens the wood which must then be re-stained. Because it removes more color from the softer parts of the wood it can exaggerate the grain pattern - particularly with oak. This may be undesirable if you wish to maintain the original character of the wood. Conversely, it can leave the wood looking lifeless. Test it first on a section of wood that is not going to be visible. You will likely be disappointed if you try to hide stains by darkening everything to match, as the marks go even darker and the whole piece is spoiled by the heavy overall color.
Re-Keying a lock may be necessary if you’ve accidentally misplaced the keys. Do not use a power drill to drill out the old lock. Try to pick the lock yourself, or call your local locksmith.
Cleaning and polishing requires a variety of techniques, depending on the materials that need to be cleaned and protected. Wood should be cleaned regularly with a “wood reviver” to remove build-up of dry wax and dirt, then covered with a good quality furniture wax (consisting of beeswax and carnauba). Do not use spray polishes that contain solvents and silicone. Apply the wax with a rag or brush. A hard paste wax is better than liquid waxes, which are more dilute. Allow it to dry before buffing up thoroughly with a clean cotton cloth. Use a soft shoe brush for moldings. A good patina is achieved by dusting regularly with a dry or slightly damp cloth, then polishing with some elbow grease, but you shouldn't need to apply wax more than once or twice a year. Chrome can shine again with a touch of Autosol and a good rag polish. Glass, removed from its case, should be cleaned in warm soapy water (with a drop of vinegar, if necessary) and wiped dry with old newspaper.
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